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My Guide to Gozo
- Joanna Ditzel
- Oct 4, 2020
- 7 min read
Updated: Oct 17, 2025
Always check Government websites for up to date advice before you travel.
Has the pandemic left you with wanderlust? Looking for somewhere beautiful to relax on a beach, explore cliff face caves and get lost in a cultural city... but without the crowds? Say "bongu" to Gozo! (Don't worry, you don't need to learn Maltese... most people speak English).
Getting there
Nestled between Sicily and Tunisia, the Maltese island of Gozo is just 13km long and the perfect destination for a short break. It is easily accessible from most countries by flying into Malta's main airport (Luqa) and catching the ferry from Ċirkewwa. The ferry is very regular (every hour or 30 minutes at peak times), reliable and takes approximately 25 minutes.
Compare flight prices below via SkyScanner:
Return Ferry Fare (as of 2020):
Child (3-12): €1.15
Standard: €4.65
Car and Driver: €15.70
Timetable: https://www.gozochannel.com/ferry/schedule/
Ferry tickets are strangely bought on your return journey at the Gozo terminal of Mgarr for foot passengers or as you drive back into Malta for cars. We felt like criminals travelling there without a ticket, but don't worry, it's pretty clear how to buy one during your return journey!
Should I Rent a Car?
There are many pros and cons of renting a car in Malta. You may have already noticed the customer ratings are poor for most of the rental companies out there but unfortunately only people that have a bad experience (usually an accident they have to pay out for...) tend to speak up. Maltese drivers can sometimes be... erratic (one of the road laws used to be "I bib first means I go first!") and some of the roads in Gozo can be... unpredictable, with some coastal roads being smoother than the city centre. But if you are a safe and experienced driver and it's within your budget, we are all for renting a car.
We rented a Toyota Aygo (it struggled up a few hills!) with KWL and had an excellent experience; we even picked it up with a full tank and were able to drop it off empty without a fee. We honestly don't think we would have been able to explore everything we did without one, but if you're still unsure, taxis are frequent and everything is only 20 minutes away, so they shouldn't cost much!
Malta Airport to Ċirkewwa Ferry Terminal:
Taxi: Approx. €30, 40 minutes
Bus: X1 €2 one way, 65 minutes
Where to Stay
The main towns that we visited in Gozo were the capital Victoria, Marsalforn on the North coast, Xlendi on the southwest coast (popular with water sports) and Mgarr, the ferry terminal on the southeast. If you are worried about Covid and want to keep your distance from people, you can easily do this without missing out on the fun by looking at the next bay along from one of these towns. We stayed in Qbajjar, a quieter bay only a 15 minute walk away from Marsalforn and we loved it. Gozo has a very low rate of crime on the island and not once did we feel unsafe walking back to our apartment after an evening in the town.
It's hard for us to comment on price, as everything was heavily discounted during the pandemic and cheaper than their usual summer. But on average, here's what you can expect to pay per person during summer for one week:
Guesthouse: €130 - 250
Self-catered Apartment: €150 - 400+
Hotel with Breakfast: €200 - 500+
Half-Board Hotel: €500 - 900+
Sunset Points
Places to Eat
Place of Interest
What to See
Where do we start?! We spent most of our holiday scuba diving (see our next post!) so were only left with three days to explore the island and its beautiful neighbour Comino, but here are our favourite finds.
Marsalforn Closely associated with the region of Żebbuġ, this is one of the most popular tourist hotspots in Gozo, with foreigners taking up almost half of its population. Famous for its scuba diving, snorkelling and fishing, there are plenty of restaurants offering delicious Mediterranean cuisine. The menu may be limited for vegetarian and vegan diners, so we would recommend Chill Bar for the best dirty fries and vegan burgers in the Maltese islands!
Salt Pans Don't go here expecting miles of Bolivian-style flats... but you can still see 3km running along the Northern coast of Gozo. As salt production here is the livelihood for many locals, you are prohibited from stepping on them, but can still get some great pictures on a sunny day.
Wied il-Għasri Arguably our favourite find in Gozo, this is a must see! Nestled within a valley is a hidden inlet of crystal blue water; perfect for a midday swim. If driving, head to Triq Is-Saghtrija and park near the T junction before walking downhill, toward the sea (there are a lot of steps, this might be challenging with a pram or wheelchair).
Ġordon Lighthouse For an incredibly panoramic view of the island and beyond, drive or walk up a steep incline to the top of the hill - it's hard to miss this working lighthouse's light!
Ta'Pinu Shrine Before heading to this impressive shrine, remember to dress with your shoulders and knees covered (men's shorts might even be risky). This beautiful basilica looks like it was built yesterday, but was originally built in the late 1500s and last refurbished in 1932. Offering stunning views of the island, this devotion to the Virgin Mary is quite a spectacle and was even visited by the Pope in 2010.
Wardija These chambers built into west facing cliffs were thought to be home to humans thousands of years ago. Visit the site in the evening to catch the sunset.
Wied ir Raghab Termed a 'national park' on Google Maps, it's little more than a few patches of greenery! But whilst there isn't much to see, it was very quiet and one of our favourite sunset spots. Take your camera!
Blue Hole, Inland Sea and Azure Window Famous for the huge rock arch called the Azure Window, since it's fall in 2017 this area lacks the magic it once had. Boasting Fungus Rock and the inland sea instead (a hidden lagoon), from a diver's point of view this is a haven. The Blue Hole is one of the most popular dive sites in Gozo - see our next post for more information! The Azure Window Restaurant and Dwejra Bar offer some lunch bites and refreshments.
Xlendi and Kantra Valley Another popular tourist destination, this town has lots to offer; water sports, an inland valley, a plethora of quality restaurants and one of very few sandy beaches, this is a great evening stop. After dinner, make sure you stop by Gelateria Granola for quite possibly, the best ice cream we have ever had - and at an amazing price!
Sannap Cliffs Overlooking rows of limestone cliffs, this is another beautiful sunset location. Great for birdwatchers and those that enjoy a walk off the beaten track, it's sure to take your breath away.
Ta'Cenc Cliffs Another sunset point slightly more east with some excellent coastal walks - be prepared for a 1-2 hour walk at a leisurely pace. For an extra treat, why not book a 5 course meal at the Ta'Cenc Hotel and Spa Restaurant?
Mgarr ix-Xini Tricky to get to but worth the effort, this secluded bay is great for snorkelling and swimming, with a café nearby.
Hondoq Bay Quite possibly one of the most beautiful beaches in Gozo, you might feel like you are in the Caribbean! With crystal, turquoise waters and another rare sandy beach, this bay has everything to offer; plenty of free parking, a hot spot for snorkelling and diving, free public toilets (in very good condition) and a well stocked café - just watch out for jellyfish!
Dahlet Qorrot Bay Similar to Hondoq Bay but quieter, a more pebbly beach and less facilities available, it is still described by many as the hidden gem of Gozo. However, it is less accessible, with a steep hike required down to the beach and no easy car access.
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Ramla Beach and Calypso Cave Maltese for 'red, sandy beach', Ir-Ramla-I-Hamra is just that! Another favourite of ours, one of Gozo's popular beaches is crammed with locals and tourists for good reason. The sand can be notoriously sticky but has excellent facilities including volley ball nets, cafes, loungers, umbrellas and lifeguards. When you've finished sunbathing for the day, be sure to visit Calypso Cave for a breath-taking view - best enjoyed at sunset. If the local cat is asleep there, tell her we said hi!
Ta ' Kenuna Tower A Semaphore Tower used to communicate with visual signals in the late 18th century, this unique landmark is a refreshing attraction. The well-maintained gardens may offer a sneak peek of a chameleon and other lizards, and the viewing desk at the top is worth the walk.
Cathedral of the Assumption (citadella) Unfortunately we didn't spend much time in Victoria, so it feels cliché that this is our only recommendation of such a wonderful city - also explore the surrounding hustle and bustle! But to start, this historical site and 5 associated museums/sites offer a concise and fulfilling record of Gozo's archaeology, nature and culture. Adult: €5 Student / Senior: €3.50 Children: €2.50
We hope that you have found our Guide to Gozo useful and you consider taking your first step abroad after the pandemic to this beautiful country. Always check your Government's advice so you stay safe, but remember that countries like Malta rely so heavily on tourism, that their residents are suffering as a consequence of Covid-19. When restrictions start to lift, show these countries some love - they have a lot to offer!
Love, Jo
@wherejowanders
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