My Guide to Europe in a Campervan

Always check Government websites for up to date advice before you travel.

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Hi! I'm Jo, a part time veterinary surgeon and part time traveller, currently living in a van/boat whilst exploring the world. In this guide, I am reliving one of mine and my ex's first trips away in a van around Europe...

In 2016 we had been dating for less than a year and this was our third holiday away as a couple - a brave choice for a new relationship! Staying in a van together isn't for the light hearted; baby-wipe showers, a small, confined space that you can't hide a fart in and washing your pants in the sink... it isn't always romantic! But it certainly has its perks.

The Van - Wicked Campers

Meet our first ever van... the Wicked Camper! Wicked Campers were a company that rented out vans all over the world, but unfortunately looking at their website it looks like they only rent 4x4s in Australia now, which is a real shame! But if you look hard enough, you will probably be able to find other companies that offers a similar service. Just make sure you discuss your route with them in advance, as each country requires it's own taxes, motorway passes and the like - we racked up a few fines by going a bit too far away!

The converted Toyota wasn't anything particularly special; it had no heating, toilet, sink or appliances but it is great starter for anyone that has maybe been camping but never stayed in a van before - like us. All you had to do was move a few wooden panels to turn the dining area into a bed, whilst the back half stocked the usual camping gear; portable gas stove, pot and water storage. Hilariously we didn't realise the bedding was hidden under the dining seats and had a rather chilly and uncomfortable first night... Whoops!

Admittedly, this wasn't quite what Lewis had in mind for his birthday. After a two hour trek with our suitcases (we weren't well-versed in backpacks yet...) in the February wind and rain, unaware of the surprise van that awaited, Lewis huffed "I can't wait for a hot shower, to change into dry clothes and get into a warm bed..."

Awkward...

The look of disappointment on his face as he realised what Jo had booked was unforgettable, but once we found the bedding and figured out how to make a cup of tea, the little van lit a spark within us. We had no idea at the time, but this one trip started the very premise of tothemoonandbackpackers and vanlife is now such a huge part of our lives.

So let's see where it all began...

Disclaimer: As mentioned above, we hadn't started blogging at this point and were not well equipped. Most photos were taken on our phone, so excuse the quality and lack of creativity!

Overall Rating:

2/5 moons

We're giving our Wicked Camper a fairly low score as it wasn't well equipped (and the 'edgy' paint job got us checked for drugs at every single border...) but looking back at the journey we did, we are amazed that our little 90s plate van made it without any technical difficulties!

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South/Central Europe - 8 days

Another disclaimer: We were naïve and bonkers trying to squeeze this into 8 days!! We recommend taking at least 2-3 weeks to really enjoy this route.

A. Italy: Venice (van pickup)

B. Slovenia: Lake Bled and Triglavski National Park

C. Croatia: Rijeka

D. Croatia: Plitvice Lakes National Park and Zagreb

E. Hungary: Budapest, Castle Hill and Fisherman's Bastion

F. Austria and Germany: Vienna, Salzburg and Munich

G. Lichtenstein and Switzerland: Swiss Alps and Lakes

H. Italy: Milan, Genoa and Pisa

I. Italy: Florence and Ravenna

J. Italy: Venice (van drop-off)

The Itinerary:

• 8 Countries

• 3000km /1865 miles

• Italian coastline

• Slovenian lakes

• Hungarian cityscape

• Alpine mountains

• And that's just the beginning...

A. Venice

Known far and wide, Venice needs no introduction. We were lucky enough to arrive on Valentine's Day (the day after Lewis' birthday) and lapped up the romantic atmosphere. But even if you are a solo traveller or the romantic scene isn't for you, the culture is easy to get lost in. You wouldn't guess that less than 100 locals truly live in Venice and that most buildings have been tragically sold to businesses or hotels, as it still maintains its original charm. A gondola ride is a must, as is the local gelato (even in winter); arguably the best in the world...

B. Slovenia

Less commonly known, we weren't sure what to expect in Slovenia... But it easily turned out to be Jo's favourite country of the trip. You haven't seen crystal blue waters and snowy mountain peaks until you've been to Slovenia! In February some of the roads were snowy and icy so winter tyres are crucial if you plan on heading up the mountain routes. The famous Lake Bled was slightly underwhelming in the bad weather but the rest of Triglav National Park was a marvel. Every turn in the road leads you to a stunning mountain range, sandy shore or baby blue stream - honestly, the water almost glows it is so fresh.

Top tips: There are bears in Slovenia! We only found this out after doing some reading and are very lucky we didn't cross paths with some, as we did do some camping at the side of the road and made our breakfast near some mountains... Phew! We also found out that wild camping is illegal in Slovenia as their natural beauty is often unfortunately ruined by campers. Book campsites in advance - and take your rubbish with you.

C & D. Croatia This is where we seriously wish we'd had more time! Only able to kiss the Croatian coast at Rijeka, we barely scratched the surface here. If you are planning a trip yourself and are visiting at a warmer time of the year, we would definitely recommend roaming down the southern coast of Croatia and coming up via Plitvice National Park - do not miss this!

This national park is full of the most incredible natural waterfalls and caves, with wooden walkways intertwined between them. Usually packed in the summer, we had the unique opportunity to see these in the snow - and we were the ONLY ones in the park! In fact, we hate to admit this but the booking booths weren't open either, so we explored it for FREE! Seeing the falls in the snow was truly magical, and an experience we will never forget.

In fact, we spent so much time here that we only stopped for a brief snack in Zagreb (check out the Museum of Broken Relationships, it's a good laugh! Pieces in the museum include a baseball bat that someone used to destroy their ex boyfriend's handmade chair, torn up clothes from an ex girlfriend and various letters wishing their exes well... so strange, but excellent after a Croatian beer or two) and we then started the long stretch to Hungary...

E. Budapest You may be wondering why on EARTH we drove 4 hours out of the way to go to Budapest. And you are right, it was an absolute trek but there is a personal reason behind our madness. At a difficult time in Jo's life, she found herself travelling alone in Budapest and it helped her massively with her mental health. It therefore holds a special place in her heart that she wanted to share with Lewis. Our favourite walks included a lunchtime stroll up Castle Hill (unmissable views, but steep!) and Fisherman's Bastion at sunrise. We unfortunately fell prey to a hefty parking fine here so be careful where you leave your van - parking is scarce in the city so consider parking elsewhere and getting the Metro in instead.

Top Tip: If your van doesn't have a shower and you're desperate for a warm place to wash, Széchenyi Thermal Bath is a great place to relax, unwind and shower. If you fancy a party, they do club nights once a month and they look awesome!

F. Austria and Germany Conscious of time, we started to pick up the pace and bunny hopped through the next three cities; Vienna, Salzburg and Munich.

Vienna was great for a wander around the shops and a lovely dinner. The city sits next to the Danube River, the second longest river in Europe which we pretty much followed from Hungary into Austria. An evening walk along the river is a must; it looks so beautiful lit up.

Salzburg was another flying visit but one that Lewis had been to before with his family. He took Jo to Mirabellgarten, the famous garden where the Sound of Music was filmed. Unfortunately it being February, we didn't see the garden in all of its glory, but it still made for a lovely walk. The Danube River featured once again, with many bridges offering tranquil views and the opportunity to add a Love Lock for someone you care about.

Our trip to Munich was really a quick, impromptu stop to add another country to our list! We didn't really see the main city. We nipped in for a quick beer (it's true what they say, German beer is amazing...) did an Escape Room (a favourite hobby of ours - check it out on the link below) and stopped outside the Allianz arena for a quick photo - we didn't even park! We really cheated Germany and neither of us has visited the country before, so we will definitely be back to experience it properly - watch this space!

Escape Room: https://teamescape.com/en/home.html

G. Lichtenstein and Swiss Alps Lichtenstein is the fourth smallest country in Europe and took less than 30 minutes to drive across, but was a very quaint and pretty place nestled in the Swiss Alps. Nice to pass through!

Once again, the Swiss Alps need little introduction. Mountain drives and a night parked in Lindau near one of its great lakes were very enjoyable. Neither words nor our rubbish pictures can do it justice! You'll just have to see for yourselves...

H. Milan, Genoa and Pisa Back in Italy, we were instantly greeted by Milan's world renowned architecture and class. Feeling a little homesick, we ordered an English Breakfast Tea in a quaint café near Cathedral square, home to the famously break-taking Duomo di Milano. If you like window shipping, Milan is the place for you! Whether you like to treat yourself to a designer brand or enjoy handmade goods or independent boutiques, there is something for everyone in the cobbled city avenues.

We aren't massive shoppers but Jo decided to treat herself to a handmade mustard handbag from an independent retailer nestled down a side stress, which was loved for many months... until Lewis' brother used it as a sick bucket on the taxi ride home after his 21st birthday... He still owes her a replacement, so I guess we will be back!

Genoa was admittedly a pit stop before moving on to the last Italian cities but once again, the spontaneous, unplanned stop turned out to be amazing! Facing south-west over the Balearic Sea, it offers jaw-dropping sunset views - a good place to stop for the night.

On our last day, we indulged in being tourists for the morning and visited the Leaning Tower of Pisa. Slightly overpriced and absolutely heaving with people holding their hands up and posing (even in February), we were a little underwhelmed. But at least it's off of the bucket list!

I. Florence and Ravenna Florence reminded us of a slightly smaller Milan; full of character, one-of-a-kind architecture and good shops. Lunch was incredible here.

And last but not least, we saved the best until the end. With a few hours to spare before needing to return the van in Venice, we made a quick pit stop along the east coast of Italy, south of the city. We found a long, white sandy beach called Lido Adriano and because of the time of year, it was completely empty! I can still remember us throwing our shoes off and running into the freezing cold, lapping waves, spreading our arms and enjoying our last dregs of freedom with our incredibly little van.

What an amazing way to end the trip.

Planning a Eurotrip in a Van? Here Are Our Top Tips:

3000km and 8 countries later, and what have we learned? A LOT. As we've mentioned a few times, we were not really fully fledged travellers when Jo organised this trip and on reflection, we should have researched the legalities of driving a van in 8 different countries in more detail to avoid the fines! But we personally believe there is a fine balance between over-planning and spontaneity, as some of the places we didn't plan to visit or didn't think we would enjoy turned out to be some of our favourites.

Overall, our biggest regret was not taking more time to explore and really get to know these wonderful countries. Europe is such a rich continent and we are incredibly lucky that travelling between its countries is relatively simple - that said, who know what new 'normal' we will be faced with after the pandemic.

Whether you are just here for a read or you are hoping to plan your very own Eurotrip in the future when things are safe, we hope you have enjoyed our guide and found something useful!

We would love to hear about any trips you have done around Europe or ones you are planning, so please don't be strangers and get in touch - all of our contact details are on our homepage.

Wishing everyone health and happiness through these challenging times.

Keep going, you've got this.

Love, Jo

@wherejowanders

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